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Question: Open Or Closed
New York Times Magazine © To open the kitchen or not to open? Is it better to put your culinary talents (and your dirty pots, alas) on display for all to see, or is it better to direct your guests to a separate dining room where -- ta-da! -- dinner appears on the table is if by magic? That is the question, although not for me. I have a galley kitchen -- which is by definition open to almost no one -- and when my guests come to dinner, they cluster in the foyer and talk to me while I cook. That is, they talk to my back, and I toss replies over my shoulder. If even one person sidles in to ''help,'' gridlock ensues, and I have to clear the area. But it's better than having my guests huddle in the living room while I miss out on the conversational fun. And that is precisely why open kitchens have become so popular in recent years. Now that cooking has become a spectator sport, both the players and the fans want to share the spotlight; the host wants to talk to the guests, and vice versa. No one wants to feel like a galley slave. Indeed, even those who can afford galley slaves don't want them anymore. The foodie revolution has turned even the most perfectly coiffed Manhattanites into Italian mammas. Come on-a my kitchen. Which is why it shouldn't be surprising to hear that someone as glamorously social as Blaine Trump finds that, at least on weekends, the kitchen is the center of her domestic universe. ''In the country,'' she says, ''when people come for dinner, no one comes through the front door -- they always come in through the kitchen.'' Trump admits that in the city, where dinners are more formal, she prefers a separate dining room; sometimes an open kitchen offers ''too much information.'' But if a proper dining room seems too old-fashioned, Trump suggests ''a dining-room-study, with bookshelves and a banquette.'' The decorator Mario Buatta says approvingly, ''A lot of kitchens today are live-in kitchens,'' yet Buatta also prefers a proper dining room in the city. ''Who wants to look at a messy kitchen from the dinner table?'' Michael Love, an interior designer who, by her own estimate, has designed ''a couple hundred kitchens'' in her career, firmly opposes open kitchens. ''Cooking is messy, if you're a good cook,'' she says. But if you must have an open kitchen, Love adds, ''don't make it look like a living room.'' Carved cabinets and upholstered furniture are magnets for grease and odors, she warns. Love adds that in many Manhattan apartments, building codes forbid through-the-wall exhaust ducts, and while range hoods are good at venting cooking heat, they don't do as well at venting smells. Linda Stein, a real-estate agent to the stars, sees the open-closed debate in sociological, almost taxonomic, terms. People who move to New York from California ''like open kitchens,'' she says. ''If they live downtown, open. If they live in an A-plus building with a really tough board, not only do they have closed kitchens, but they have really good exhaust systems.'' In large, traditional apartments, Stein adds, more and more people are taking staff rooms and folding the space into expanded family kitchens -- while still keeping their formal dining rooms. Stein calls Christie Brinkley ''courageous'' for opening up the kitchen in her former apartment in a tony Upper East Side building but says that in that particular market, it poses definite resale risks. ''An open kitchen can kill a sale,'' she explains. The very rich, it seems, would rather keep their options open than their kitchens. Which is why the condominium apartments in the Time Warner Center, where prices start in the millions, will have several different kitchen types -- all of them elaborately appointed but none of them completely open. David Wine, the vice chairman of the Related Companies, the project's developer, points out that while buyers want flexibility, ''Our customers are very, very big on entertaining, and want to accommodate help when they entertain.'' But, Wine adds, a kitchen can be opened up if a buyer prefers. And some definitely do. The decorator Jeffrey Bilhuber says, ''Even if we like the values of traditional furniture and surroundings, one has to adapt to a modern lifestyle.'' Bilhuber illustrated his point in a dramatic remodeling of an apartment for Paul Wilmot, the owner of a prominent public-relations firm. Bilhuber tore down many of the apartment's walls, creating what he calls ''the largest eat-in kitchen on the Upper East Side.'' Which is fine with Wilmot. ''I was tired of being a servant in my own kitchen,'' he says. ''Now I'm part of the entertaining process.'' Dissolving the walls -- and the distinctions -- between the kitchen and other rooms is easier in a more modern setting, where architectural ornament, like moldings and paneling, is at a minimum, and space flows freely from one area to the next. Susan L. Nicholas, the president of Bulthaup Corporation, a kitchen manufacturer known for its sleek, contemporary aesthetic, is seeing more and more instances in which traditional overhead and undercounter cabinets are giving way to full walls of flush cabinetry, uninterrupted even by hardware (they open with touch latches), that doesn't have a ''kitchen'' look. ''The elegance of the design allows the kitchen to segue into other spaces,'' she says. But for most people, a happy medium is the answer. Larry Bogdanow of Bogdanow Partners, an architectural firm that has designed restaurants like the Union Square Cafe and Savoy, is at work on a Manhattan brownstone in which most of the hallmarks of the open kitchen are there -- a peninsula, center island, fireplace and desk -- but with a dining area that can be closed off with sliding doors. If you don't have that much space, Bogdanow suggests screening the sink from guests' view. And get a really deep sink, he advises -- it's easier to hide pots and pans while maintaining the ''relaxed environment'' that has supplanted more formal dining. Of course, fashion rules eating as much as it rules dressing, so maybe we shouldn't be surprised if cutting-edge foodies start to enclose their once-open kitchens. Curmudgeonly as this may sound, there may be some people out there whose hearts don't warm to the thought of cooking for an audience, or whose use-every-available-pot methodology leaves the kitchen too shambolic, as the British say, to contemplate dining in. And let's admit it: even the most enthusiastic home chef, with a massive eat-in kitchen, can feel daunted at the prospect of racing home from work, preparing dinner for a group and serving it, trying all the while to look as if the entire enterprise were no big deal. As a former roommate of mine once said, her idea of the perfect kitchen was ''a swinging door that you push open, stick your head in, and say: 'We'll be two more for dinner tonight. Thank you!' '' Pilar Viladas is the design editor of The New York Times Magazine. |
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Abby Mandel © Because the groundhog has determined Chicagoans are due for six more weeks of winter, this Scandinavian-inspired dinner is a perfect meal when entertaining friends on a cold winter night. Served family-style, this informal supper inspires warmth among those gathered. Myrna Christopherson's Swedish meatballs are the mouthwatering real thing. She prepares them with the lightest coating of gravy, just enough to enhance the flavor of noodles tossed simply with fresh dill. The braised sweet-sour red cabbage adds vibrant color and taste to the plate. These dishes are best prepared ahead of time, as the meatballs and cabbage are more fully flavored when reheated. Complete the dinner with a starter of herring and crackers and a chilled beer or pinot noir with the main course. Finish with a simple plate of tasty butter cookies complementing a dish of vanilla ice cream and fresh raspberries. SWEDISH MEATBALLS WITH GRAVY AND LINGONBERRY PRESERVES Preparation time: 45 minutes Chilling time: 2 hours Cooking time: 1 hour, 15 minutes Yield: 80 meatballs, 10 servings This recipe is best made a few days before serving. These meatballs also make a delicious hot appetizer. They freeze exceptionally well, so even if your group is small, make the full recipe. 1 1/2 cups fresh breadcrumbs 3/4 cup milk 2 large eggs, beaten 1/2 teaspoon each: salt, ground allspice, freshly grated nutmeg, pepper 1 pound each: lean ground chuck, ground veal 1/2 pound lean ground pork 1 tablespoon each: butter, canola oil Gravy: 1 medium onion, sliced 2 1/2 tablespoons flour 1 can (10 1/2 ounces) beef consomme 1/4 cup water 1/2 cup whipping cream Salt, freshly ground white pepper For serving: Dilled noodles, recipe follows Lingonberry preserves, optional 1. Heat oven to 300 degrees. Put breadcrumbs and milk in large bowl. Stir; soak 10 minutes. Add onion, eggs and seasonings; combine. 2. Add meat to bowl. Combine lightly with hands until mixed. Shape meatballs with moistened hands into 1 1/2-inch balls. Arrange in single layer on baking sheet. Refrigerate until firm, about 2 hours. 3. Heat butter and oil in one or more large skillets over medium-high heat. Add meatballs in batches; cook until browned, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to 8-quart or larger oven-safe casserole. 4. Add onion to one skillet. Cook over medium heat until softened, stirring often, about 4 minutes. Add flour; cook 1 minute. Pour in consomme and water; stir until thickened, about 4 minutes. Add cream; cook, stirring, until hot. Add salt and pepper to taste. Strain onions from gravy. Pour gravy over meatballs. Cover casserole. 5. Bake until cooked through, about 45 minutes. Cool 20 minutes. Remove meatballs with slotted spoon; skim fat from gravy. Place meatballs back in gravy. Serve hot over dilled noodles; pass lingonberry preserves. Note: Can be refrigerated up to 3 days or frozen for 1 month. Bring to room temperature. Heat, covered, in 300-degree oven until hot, about 50 minutes. Nutrition information per serving: Calories ......... 362 Fat ........... 20 g Sat. fat ...... 9 g % cal. from fat ... 51 Chol ........ 138 mg Sodium ..... 828 mg Carb. ........... 18 g Protein ....... 26 g Fiber ......... 1 g Nutritional analysis by Jodie Shield DILLED NOODLES Preparation time: 5 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Yield: 10 servings 1 package (1 pound) egg noodles 3 tablespoons unsalted butter Salt, freshly ground white pepper 1/3 cup snipped fresh dill 1. Cook noodles according to package directions. Drain noodles; reserve 1 1/2 cups cooking liquid. Toss noodles with butter. Add reserved liquid as needed if noodles are dry. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be cooked in advance. Reheat on stovetop or in microwave oven). Toss in dill. Nutrition information per serving: Calories .......... 178 Fat ........... 5 g Sat. fat ....... 3 g % cal. from fat .... 26 Chol. ....... 46 mg Sodium ........ 8 mg Carb. ............ 28 g Protein ....... 5 g Fiber .......... 1 g Nutritional analysis by Jodie Shield BRAISED SWEET-SOUR RED CABBAGE Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes Yield: 10 servings 2 tablespoons butter 1/3 cup chopped onion 1 medium head red cabbage, cored, shredded 1 large apple, chopped 1 1/4 cups water 3 tablespoons each: currant jelly, cider vinegar 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground pepper 1. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in large nonaluminum pot over medium-high heat. Add onion; cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in cabbage, apple, water, jelly, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper. Heat to boil. Reduce heat; simmer, covered, until very tender with a slight crunch, about 40 minutes. Add more water if mixture is dry. Stir in remaining tablespoon of butter. Adjust seasonings to taste. (Can be made a day ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before reheating on stovetop or in microwave oven. Add water as needed.) Nutrition information per serving: Calories .......... 82 Fat .......... 3 g Sat. fat ...... 2 g % cal. from fat ... 26 Chol. ....... 6 mg Sodium ..... 277 mg Carb. ........... 15 g Protein ...... 1 g Fiber ......... 3 g Nutritional analysis by Jodie Shield |
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Today's Kitchen Counters Have Their Ups And Downs By Frances Ingraham Heins Today's kitchen reflects growth, sociability, individuality and entertainment. Larger kitchens feature multiple sinks, desks, televisions, computers and entertainment centers, according to the National Association of the Remodeling Industry. So many new features and functions call for various counter heights. Multilevel, solid-surface countertops and islands provide the necessary heights to accommodate various functions and family members.Staggered wall cabinets create visual interest and let cooks of different sizes and ages find their own comfort zones, according to the Maytag Kitchen Design Center. For example, a 30-inch-high cutting board at the end of a work island is practical for children and is wheelchair-accessible. A multilevel island or peninsula accommodates all family members. In appliances, cooktops are lower for better visibility and to help cooks reach back burners. Dishwashers are higher, creating better access to controls, less strain on the back and easier loading and unloading. A 42-inch counter above a raised dishwasher is at an ideal height for the microwave oven. Sinks also are installed at different heights for better access. As a bonus,a lower sink allows for a longer window so the entire family can enjoy the view. Who cooks? who cleans? The key to planning a new kitchen or remodeling an existing one is to think about family members and how they will be using it. "Any eating space should be 12 inches higher than the seat of the chair," said David DeNofio, division manager of Terminal Millwork Inc. in upstate New York. The universal seat height of a chair is 18 inches, a counter stool usually is 24 inches high and a bar stool is 30 inches high. The standard kitchen countertop is 36 inches high, according to interior designer Denise Maurer of Troy, N.Y., and would call for a 24-inch stool. A 30-inch bar stool would require a 42-inch bar top. Choices are many Countertops are one of the easiest and most dramatic ways to give a fresh new look to your kitchen. Decide which surface materials work best for you. Granite is the most expensive, at approximately $75 to $200 per square foot, but shopping around and exploring all granite materials may get you an affordable price. Unlike acrylic resins, which are sold by the linear foot, granite is sold by either the square foot or the job, and all edgework is sold by the linear foot, said James Nass, manager of Capital Stone in the Albany, N.Y., suburb of Colonie. "The cost is also affected by the amount of custom work, such as shapes, radius cuts and corners," Nass said. "It's heavy to work with, and all of the cuts are made with diamonds, making the tooling work expensive. The typical templated granite countertop leaving here costs between $100 and $110 per square foot installed." The drawback to granite is that scratches are hard to repair and it doesn't seam perfectly, like solid-surface materials. Chips are fairly easy to repair, Nass said. Because it is stone, which is porous, granite may stain. According to DeNofio, something as simple as a potato chip will stain a granite counter. Granite, which is made of igneous rocks (quartz, feldspar and mica) should be coated with a silicone sealer every three weeks. Solid surface Acrylic resin countertops, which come in more than 65 colors and finishes, from faux marble to granite, can be repaired easily by either buffing out a small nick or gluing in a new pie-shaped piece and buffing the seam out until it is invisible. Acrylic resin is seamless, nonporous and easy to clean with ordinary abrasive cleaner or repaired with sandpaper, as the color and pattern run all the way through the material. The resin also can be seamed into the sink, eliminating metal edges or water seepage. It is chip- and crack-resistant. Accidental cuts, burns and scratches are sanded away easily with fine sandpaper. Drainboard grooves also can be routed in to create designs. The most popular brand, DuPont's Corian, costs between $110 and $175 per linear foot. The price depends on the color, whether it has to be fitted to a sink and general configuration of the countertop. The cost is approximately 15 to 20 percent less than granite. Unless it is for a small area, such as a vanity or desk, solid surface countertop prices include installation. However, the price might not include removing the old counter. Make sure the contractor doing the installation is certified or accredited by the solid surfacing manufacturer. A new pure acrylic material that costs about 20 percent less than Corian is Wilsonart's SSV, a 1/8-inch solid-surface veneer (Corian is 1 1/2 inches thick) that is applied to particleboard. This comes in the same patterns as acrylic resins and granite. There are several Corian lookalike products on the market, including the Wilsonart product and Nevamar's Fountainhead. Plain old Formica The least expensive counter material is plastic laminate, such as Formica. Tony Francesconi, a customer service representative with Arcy Plastic Laminates Inc. in upstate New York, said one factor in the cost is the type of edging. A square edge is $14.50 and a bevel edge is $21 a linear foot. The price goes up to approximately $30 or more per linear foot as the width increases. Plastic laminate countertops may be the most affordable, but they have several disadvantages. They can chip or wear away, and stains seep into pores, seams and voids easily. Areas with scorches, chips and cuts can't be repaired and must be replaced. When selecting a countertop, kitchen designers say, remember that solid and dark colors show everything, while a little pattern can help to mask water spots and a few crumbs here and there. Stay away from trendy colors that become easily dated. |
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Indoor Gardening: How Dreams of Spring Yield Fields of Leeks A Recipe: Potato & Leek Gratin By Richard W. Langer February is the end of the leek season -- and the beginning. Once the last of the fall crop has been sauteed, the garden catalogs set the mind to dreaming of how green the frozen landscape once was and will be again. As the first of the new year's plants to be seeded into starter flats, leeks are a simple way for the impatient gardener to start growing, indoors, while snow still blankets the ground. Leeks are the sort of crop that makes both the gardener and Alan Greenspan happy. By my reckoning, the return on investment in growing leeks exceeds even the best of dot-com stocks. A package of seeds costing $3.10 produces about 1,000 transplantable leeks that would be worth more than $500 at supermarket prices when fully grown, and that's not counting the free exercise involved in tending the plants. As you hill and hoe, you can contemplate all the ways those leeks can be cooked and eaten: in vinaigrette, in potato or squash soup, in salads. Leeks have been around in culinary circuits since at least the Middle Ages, but the flavors accompanying them seem to have changed considerably over the years. I have an ancient German recipe for a leek and cabbage soup made with lard, for instance, that calls for saffron, coriander seed and cinnamon. A simple combination of potatoes, leeks and thyme with lots of heavy cream is more contemporary. Leeks like a very rich soil, but don't use potting soil to fill your flats. Use the special seed-starting mixture available bagged at most nurseries and gardening-supply stores. Potting soil is too dense and heavy for starting seeds, particularly those as fine as leeks. Theoretically, you should plant the seeds in a 1/4-inch-by- 1/4-inch grid and cover them with a light dusting of soil. If Job were a gardener, this would truly try his patience. Theoretically, you should also transplant the leeks once they are about two inches tall into individual cell-type containers. I'm not saying this method won't give you the largest, plumpest blue-ribbon leeks -- but it will also probably occupy almost all the space you have for starter flats in your home. And so I just broadcast or scatter 300 or so seeds to a flat of premoistened seed-starter soil. Then I dust some soil on top, mist with water and cover the tray with plastic wrap. After a few weeks, when the seeds are pushing up green, I raise the plastic wrap about six inches and continue to let the young plants grow. Come April or so, I go out and hack a row in the garden. You can dibble individual holes and set the plants out 5 to 6 inches apart. But what is much easier and works just fine is using a 6- to 7-inch-deep trench and simply laying the plants along one side and then going back over the row, pushing it closed so that the young plants are almost completely buried. When you transplant leeks whose seeds have simply been broadcast across a starter flat, you will find that their roots have grown into a Medusa of white strands. Just tug and pull gently on each individual leek, and it will break free from the mass without damage. But because the roots will be almost completely bare, you need to get them into the garden immediately and water them well. Every three or four weeks as the plants grow, pull some soil up to the sides of the leeks and bury them farther. This blanches the leeks, increasing the amount of flavorsome tender white bulb that you get. It is also the reason you need to cut the leeks in half and wash out the grit before cooking them. You could grow leeks in a container on a terrace, but they do take room. The box would need to be at least a foot deep to keep the leeks buried, and it would have to be quite long so that the leeks could be planted six inches apart. A three-foot box would yield only about 10 leeks. Leeks are like potatoes: you get one good dinner out of a pot. You can eat leeks anytime after they have developed the white bulb; the flavor does not become stronger or milder as they grow. If they are too close, I harvest them when they are barely thicker than a pencil. A diameter of one or two inches, however, is ideal. POTATO AND LEEK GRATIN Adapted from Metrazur Time: 1 hour 45 minutes 1 cup thinly sliced leeks (white part only) 1. Bring small pot of water to boil. Wash sliced leeks well, and blanch for 15 seconds. Drain, and rinse with cold water. Drain again, and set aside. 2. Chop thyme sprigs, removing any woody stems. Set aside. 3. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Butter bottom and sides of 9-by-12-by-2-inch roasting pan. Pour in just enough cream to coat bottom. Set aside enough potatoes to cover pan, in overlapping slices, in one layer; these will be used to top the gratin. In the pan, arrange a third of the remaining slices evenly, overlapping the slices in rows. Season lightly with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with a third of the thyme and a third of the leeks. 4. Drizzle small amount of cream over the potatoes, and again top with a third of the potatoes, salt and pepper to taste, and a third of the thyme and leeks. Repeat the layers once more. Top the gratin with the reserved potato slices, arranging the slices in decorative overlapping rows. Season again with salt and pepper to taste, and pour remaining cream over the potatoes. 5. Cover pan with aluminum foil, and make a hole in the center for steam to escape. Bake until gratin is just tender in the center when pierced with a knife, about 1 hour. Remove foil, and increase heat to 400 degrees. Continue to bake until gratin is soft and creamy and top is golden brown, about 20 minutes longer. Serve hot. Yield: 12 servings. |
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As you begin choosing your china, crystal and flatware, it's easy to dream about the elegant dinners you'll serve. You'll start with soup, of course, so you can use those beautiful rimmed soup bowls you registered for. Grilled fish and steamed asparagus will look delicious on your formal china. And chocolate mousse will be the perfect dessert in your crystal champagne saucers. It's easy to picture: flickering candles, great conversation, soft music in the background. There's only one problem. You can't cook. Or more accurately, you've never tried to cook, for anyone other than yourself. Before now, your idea of dinner may have been eating cereal out of the box or having pizza delivered to your door. But with the right tools -- and a few good recipes -- you and your husband can create the perfect dinner party. (And great meals for enjoying together every day, too.) Selecting kitchen basics may not be as glamorous as choosing china and crystal or towels and sheets, but it's just as important. Here are some items to include on your gift registry wish list: Cookware: There is a variety of cookware materials, each with different virtues, so you'll probably want to stock your kitchen with more than one type. Copper is the ideal top-of-the-range cookware because of its ability to heat quickly and evenly, but it is expensive and requires extra care. Look for copper or copper-bottomed pots and pans lined with stainless steel, nickel or tin to prevent your cookware from reacting with acidic foods. Aluminum is lightweight and, like copper, is a good heat conductor. Look for heavy gauge, anodized aluminum, which is less likely to warp and resists stains and scratches. Aluminum is especially good for cake pans and cookie sheets. Stainless steel is extremely durable and resistant to stains, scratches, tarnish and corrosion. But it doesn't conduct heat as well as other metals, so it is best combined with other materials, such as copper. Cast iron is great for browning and broiling. Though it heats slowly, it retains heat for a long time. It also requires more care than stainless steel or aluminum and may rust if it is not carefully dried after washing. Porcelain enamel cookware is available in a wide range of aesthetically pleasing colors. The enamel, which is applied as a coating to aluminum, stainless steel or cast iron is dishwasher-safe and stain resistant. Nonstick cookware is great for health-conscious couples who want to cook without a lot of fat or oil. The nonstick finish, which is actually a chemical coating applied to aluminum or stainless steel, also promotes easy cleaning. Cutlery: Good cutlery will make your job in the kitchen much easier. Knives with high-carbon stainless steel blades are expensive but an excellent investment. Combining the strength of stainless steel with the easy- sharpening qualities of carbon steel, these blades stay sharp longer than most knives. Stainless steel blades are strongest but difficult to sharpen. And carbon steel is easy to sharpen but rusts, chips and discolors easily. Both are less expensive than high-carbon stainless steel, so choose these blades if you plan to replace your cutlery in a few years. Small appliances: There are all sorts of electrical gadgets that can make your job in the kitchen easier. A microwave oven is high on almost every couple's wish list, especially if you don't have a lot of time to cook. A coffeemaker is also a high priority. (Even if you don't drink coffee, you will undoubtedly have guests who do.) An electric mixer is another indispensable item, especially if you love to bake. And many gourmet recipes assume you have access to a food processor, but even a novice cook would want a mini-chopper. Other appliances to consider include: toaster or toaster oven, electric skillet, espresso and cappuccino maker, coffee grinder, electric wok, ice cream maker, pasta machine, breadmaker, juicer, slow cooker, waffle iron, popcorn popper and electric can opener. When you think about it, creating a cook's kitchen requires a lot of planning. But you don't have to have every pot or pan or every gadget right away. Register for the basics now and expect to add to your kitchen tools over the years. Before you know it, people will be begging for your recipes. |
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